Chillblains in June

We were woken early by the rain but fortunately it had stopped by the time we were ready to get going. All the same it was pretty cold with the air temperature down at 9 degrees and a brisk N F3-4 blowing.

We were on the water by 8.30am and headed straight across Sinclair Bay to Noss Point. The sea state picked up as we got closer but was still only slight to moderate. At the point though things got a bit lively and some serious concentration was required due to the 1.5m ground swell mixing with the wind blown waves and the clapotis bouncing back off the point. Things eased a little once past the main point but it was still a lively ride down to Wick.

We stopped at Broad Haven just N of Wick for a breather and top up our water.

Suitably refreshed we head S across Wick Bay only to find more tricky seas awaiting us just S of the bay, in part a function of the N going tide. Eventually we reached The Haven just N of Sarclet Point, an old fishing station, and went ashore for lunch. It was still pretty cold and we hunckered down in the shelter of the ruins to get out of the worst of the wind.

Back on the water and round Sarclet Point things improved. The swell was still there but we had lost the influence of the tide and the wind so the sea was much more manageable.

The coast down this section S of Wick is pretty impresive with a continous selection of arches, geos, caves and stacks. A great place for a paddle on a calm day.

What was even more startling was the number of sea birds. In the course of the day we must have passed thousands if not tens of thousands of them. Common Guillimots, Black Guillimots, Razorbilla, Puffins, Shags, Black Backs, Herring Gulls and the occasional Eider Duck. The noise, the sky filled with birds and the smell are difficult to capture in words. Incredible just doesn't do it justice. We also found ourselves paddled past Guillimots and Razorbills with beaks full of freshly caught fish and on their way back to the 'family ledge', just amazing.

A bit further along as we passed inside a skerry we came upon a large group of seals hauled out on the rocks. We were pretty close before we spotted them and vice versa and managed to get a few shots before they did their depth charge impressions and came for a closer look at us.

Eventually we arrived at Lybster and pulled in for a break just as the rain returned.

From there we headed off on the final leg to Dunbeath. As we did so the wind dropped to a whisper, the sea state eased right off and the rain stopped. A nice way to finish the shift.

We pulled into Dunbeath and had just got the tent up when the rain returned. Probably the coldest June day that we can recall and we both now have chillblains for good measure.

Distance travelled today: 47km
Total distance travelled: 467km
Midgee ferrocity: am nil, pm 3/5

Heading South

Up slightly later than yesterday and on the water about 9.45am. There was no particular rush as the door south at Duncansby Head wasn't due to open until late afternoon.

We had a minor hicough when one of the tent poles broke as we were taking it down. Not sure why it went. The winds hadn't been particularly strong overnight so that was unlikely to be the cause but we have noticed that the alu poles don't seem to like the salt water environment much and have corroded a little. The wee repair tube provided by Vango did the trick, but we're trying to source a replacement pole from them rather than rely on the repair for the rest of the trip.

With a N F3-4 blowing across us we made our way slowly round to Sannox Bay just to the W of Duncansby Head. With our boats in position ready to go when the time came we wandered back to John O Groats in search of a shop. We found a few, but wedding dresses, candles and sea side rock weren't really what we were looking for. Tony was particularly impressed with the place and plans to take his holidays there every year.

Back at Sannox Bay we still had time to kill so we walked up to the headland for a peak preview of what was to come.

On the way back as we cut across the grass back to where we had left the boats a pair of curlews started up in alarm. Clearly there must be a chick nearby so we started to watch our step. Not a moment too soon as it was there immediately in front of us doing a grand imitation of a stone and very cute with it. We moved away quickly before the adults became any more stressed.

Back at the beach we put on just after 3pm and started nosing round the point against the last of the W going tide. Despite the N F3-4 the sea state was slight promising a good trip around the headland.

The rock architecture was magnificent and our early arrival at the point gave us time to explore some of the geos and have a good look around.

Aside from the geology the place is also sea bird central, with a competition clearly underway to see how many Guillimots you can fit on a single ledge.

Then we moved on down past the Knee and the Stacks of Duncansby. More spectacular rock scenery, more sea birds at 9" centres and a great place for a paddle.

Then it was 4pm and time to go. The south bound Pendalino had arrived and was already rolling. We jumped off briefly to explore Wife Geo, another amazing rock feature, before settling down for the non-stop fast service to Sinclair Bay.

We ended up stopping a little short of the bay and hauled out just south of the ruins of the old Castle Keiss.

A short but great days paddling. In many ways we were sad to leave the N coast. Never having been there before we came away with the impression of a beautiful area with some pretty special boating venues.

Distance travelled today: 27km
Total distance so far: 420km
Midgee ferrocity: nil. Too windy am and too cold pm.